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The Hanok Village was on the Jeonju River-side outside the West Gate. The area was where Japanese people lived after the Eulsa Treaty (1905). The city wall is now gone, and the only real manifestation of the beauty of that wall is the Pungnammun Gate.

In 1907 the western part of the City Wall was demolished to make way for the Whole Army Highway, used for mass transportation of grain and rice. This provided a new opportunity for Japanese to enter the city during a period when the Japanese were seizing the economic and political framework on the peninsula during a period of intense colonization. Japanese merchants, once kept at arms length took prominent positions in the city. Japanese merchants formed the biggest commercial area in Jeonju, and this trend continued until 1945 as the Japanese dominated Korean business and government. Japanese colonial expansion and hegemony ended in 1945 as a result of their defeat in the Pacific War.

After 1930, the Koreans started to build Hanok Village mainly as a reaction to the expansion of Japanese influence. This was partially a response against Japanese-style houses and partially an expression of national pride. Hanok areas show clear contrast with the Japanese style, and displayed some odd city color, as they included Western style missionary houses, schools and churches nearby. Looking over from Omokdae, the Hanok Village in Gyo-dong and Pungnam-dong shows majestic ridges of octagonal roofs with beautiful round lines and shapes.

The Seunggwangje Guest House, is considered to be one of the best Hanok style guest houses in Jeonju. The rooms are small, but comfortable. The images in this gallery show the grounds of the Seunggwangje Guest House and the room I rented for two nights. The owner is the grandson of King Gojong, and he is lobbying the Korean government to bring back a symbolic monarchy for Korea. He was very enthusiastic to tell me, and if they did, he would be king!